Lady Lost: Abstract Art, Stalkers, Spice Bazaars and Circumcision

Sometimes you just have to get lost. So Saturday, I did. Today's post is about how to entertain oneself (or protect oneself) by being LOST as a single lady.

I woke up, had some more carbohydrates to hydrate and decided to take untrodden paths to do three things: 1) Eventually make it to the Hippie District to try to get drum/guitar lessons 2) Go to the Spice Bazaar 3) Grocery Shop.

So I set out on foot. No public transportation. Found some great novelties. 

Abstract Art 

I made my way to Taksim, but opted for some back streets. I ran into a fashion house that carried original pieces by both Japanese, Brazilian, and a Turkish woman who studied Anthropology all over the world and now makes clothes. (See my other blog, www.theglobalizationofvanity.blogspot.com) 

After, I ran into the Pera Museum, holding a ceramic show in the heat of Istanbul Design Weekend. I can smell Yuppiness.  I will end here before I go into intellectual masturbation mode. I moseyed some more until I found the Istanbul Culinary Institute (more yuppiness). BEST part of my afternoon. I had a SALAD with soft cheese, basil and tomatoes. Now, the nice thing about being a girl alone is that you get free stuff. Of course I got free coffee and dessert! 

LOST MOMENT: I like getting lost in other people's conversations. And judging them. (I Admit it.... a single lady has to entertain herself with that around her) Next to me was a Chinese tourist with two Indian tourists having a conversation about abstract art. The Chinese woman was an "artist" while the Indians worked as Engineers at Microsoft. Conversation snippet: 

Indian Woman: "I want to understand abstract art! It is too abstract for my engineering mind. What is the guideline? Is there one? I mean, if I look at a stack of BIC pens they call "art" at my office at Microsoft, is that art? It must be good because its in my office." 

Chinese Woman: "Well, because you are an engineer you think you need a guideline but you don't. Maybe they put this in your office just to piss you off. Modern Art is about your relationship to the object and about the process. Its not about whether it is good or not." 

Indian Woman: "But there must be a reason!"

Chinese Woman: "Have you ever taken an art class? Maybe you would know."

Indian Woman: "When I was a kid." 

Chinese Woman: "You are just an engineer and so that is all art means to you and thats fine. Maybe you should analyze it. But if all you see if that, then that's it for you."

So Chinese Woman thought she was a really great artist, using buzzwords like "process" and "relationship" and putting down Engineers. Hunny, I've met plenty of great engineers who are also artists creating art because they are skeptical of art. Chinese Woman was kind of getting bitchy... Lucky for me, I had free dessert to keep me busy. I found my one dollar bill to give as a cute tip and left...

Stalkers

I walk down the street to the hippie district. I find some drums (tabla) and types of guitars I mess with before I get in a bargaining match with a "Bohemian Street Artist" as he calls himself. I find a vintage clothing store in what is basically the ruins of an old building with clothes from eons ago, leather, and a lady cooking. People glance at me, but I look Turkish, so I don't get many looks (I'm dressed normally for a Turk). I wander further down to the hardware district where someone tries to sell a faucet to me. Further on the bridge I walk past fisherman. 

LOST MOMENT: Coming out of the tunnel crossing the street, I hear heavy breathing on me. I glance from my side vision from my thick 1970s Perry Ellis Frames (thank you Aunt Nancy) and see a large prepubescent boy staring at me with his mouth open. I keep walking, he follows. I take out my phone to "call" someone. He still follows. Another 100 meters, I turn around look at him and say "Get away!" I walk quickly towards a mosque and fall in with a bunch of ladies. 

Thank Allah for Mosques. Instant security. Getting lost in a crowd is a major plus.  

Spice Bazaars and Circumcision

Finding the Spice Bazaar was a nightmare. I found myself in a clothing district, dealing with a different sort of "spice of life." 

LOST MOMENT: Culture can make you want to hide in fear of pain, not get lost. Everyone was out buying little circumcision outfits for their uncircumcised sons in this clothing district. So here is what you need to know. At around 10-12 boys "become men" (they are told) and get special clothes with crowns and scepters and toys. They eat out and get all the sweets they want. They get pictures taken and go to holy places. Then... they are taken to a sort of special place where they become men. Only they do not expect someone to whip out surgical tools and take their foreskin. Poor little dudes. 

After a while of wandering through gardening, pet, and hardware bazaars, I find the epic spice bazaar where I purchase rose and mint tea like a pro, along with Turkish Delight. Some rug dealers become  my friends and they all invite me back for tea later. I have a "date" and a "boyfriend" I have to go see, so they nod in a sort of respect, understanding, and disappointment perhaps. 

On the way back, I try to do something domestic with my life.

Grocery Shopping. 

LOST MOMENT: This is harder, yet easier in Istanbul. When you are in a tiny room and just ask for things and someone gets them for you--that's nice. When you don't speak Turkish and have to do this. That is not so nice. Lost.... But luckily I know enough words for food and "beautiful" to get by. I get the goods for crepes and scrambled eggs. I'm lost while trying to find my domesticity. I know it exists.... 

So lessons learned as a single lady: 1) Getting lost in someone else's rather pointed (and uninformed?) conversations about modern art can make any single lady want to get lost in a dessert--keep them handy 2) Get lost in mosques to avoid heavy breathing boychicks 3) Its okay if you don't want to understand why they circumcise boys at a late age.... 4) You don't speak the language of Turkish nor domestic-- at least the first one is a valid excuse for the fact that you cannot cook... presently....

Regardless, that was my favorite day (and the night was even more... interesting. Spucky, Spunky, Sparky shout out??). Sorry if it was scattered. My mind was a little lost in awe, wonder, love, excitement, wanderlust, caution, geography, shopping, nervousness, and Hasan Dede. Just kidding. 

Born Again Muslims?

Whirling Dervish shows are a dime a dozen in Istanbul (or 30 Pounds if you want to see the "official" one near the Galata tower, organized by the Contemporary Lovers of Mevlana Rumi--EMAV). However, some people still worship Mevlana Rumi's teachings under the Mevlevi order--a mystical Sufi sect of Islam. My mission? Find them. 

MYSTICAL?? HOLD UP. That is what my mother said too. Of course mysticism has a bad rap to many, but mysticism is by no means about shaking pot in one's face and doing witchcraft. Don't worry mom. This is not what I did Thursday night. 

I found myself the Contemporary Lovers of Mevlana Rumi online and a few e-mails later, I was in touch with Carole, who offered to meet Edgar (my brother...) and I to take us to her place of worship. 

Now, I did my back research before meeting an older American woman from Michigan, holding three roses who recently had a stroke in front of a McDonalds in Taksim. The Contemporary Lovers of Mevalana Rumi (EMAV for short) are actually aided by the government and earn lots of tourist $$ by holding performances near the Galata Tower--the old Sufi Mausoleum. Their Spiritual Leader, Hasan Dede, has raised Ataturk to Sainthood and is quite the TV face. Already, you are getting the feel that this is almost like a vogue Jerry Falwell? 

So Carole, bless her soul, takes us on a bus to her EMAV center. On the way, she tells us she has been in Istanbul for 26 years. The first 6 years, she didn't know what she was doing, then 20 years ago, she met Hasan Dede and "knew what she was doing." She always mentioned Hasan Dede, her "spiritual master" as if he was Jesus Christ himself. After traveling down back alleys where kids were playing ball, we get to the EMAV center, built three years. ago. 

Immediately, we meet Hasan Dede, who I am led to sort of kneel to as he blesses me. Everyone rises when Hasan Dede enters or leaves. Hasan Dede looks like a car salesman, not a spiritual leader. The cleanliness strikes me first. Someone cleans a lawn chair off for me. We sit and read a pamphlet made by EMAV members. Later, we remove our shoes to go into a new building with nice carpet, wood, and pictures of Ataturk and Rumi. 

The demographic is mixed though. The guy slicing your doner (or Gyro meat) is there, but also some very nice jewelry is around. Trust me, this kind of felt like one of those large Christian Congregations with microphones, new HomeDepot architecture, and an old man preaching from the floor on his sheepskin with his water, mints, and prayer beads at his side. Followers set their cell phones and diabetes pumps (yes...) in front to record him speaking. The Qu'ran sat on a shelf, unreachable 

Before I go on, you should know some things about EMAV....

A CRASH COURSE IN HOW TO BE A CONTEMPORARY LOVER OF MEVLANA RUMI (Thanks to my Spiritual Talks of Hasan Dede Book, for 5 Turkish Pounds at the center... hmmm)

Q: Who is Mevlana Rumi? 

A: Rumi was a 13th century Persian poet and philosopher. His teachings and Mystical Sufi spiritual practices were so influential, that his son continued the Sufi Order. Rumi was considered one of the most popular poets in America--according to wikipedia... 

Q: What are some basic Mevlevi principles? 

A: Mevlana teaches that God created the world and human beings and created HImself within the humans. He says, "Whatever you want, want from yourself because you are everything." Love between humans and God and Mevlana (who is everywhere) is the basic idea. LOVE and self perfection. Mevlana are famous for their Sema which is the Whirling Dervish Ritual, where anyone can whirl for the "burning love to become one with God." Contemporary lovers of Mevlana must follow Hasan Dede.... 

Q: Who is Hasan Dede? 

A: He is a Macedonian who moved to Istanbul and fell in love with Sufism. He trained with another Mevlevi Sheikh, Hakki Dede. later, Hasan Dede became the representative of Mevlana. He has the red sheepskin used in the Sema. Basically, he sold Mevlani to the world and raised Ataturk to Sainthood. Because he can. Because he is Hasan Dede. (All rise when he is in the room). Resembles a sort of local politician/car salesman. Wears gold and silk (no no's in Islam).

Q: Are Mevlani Moslems? 

A: They regard themselves as Moslems, but they do not read the Qu'ran. Instead, they read Mevlana's books, which can be translated into many languages. It is the "living Qu'ran, which is better"--as Carole said. 

Q: Do Mevlani follow Mohammad? 

A:They follow all prophets and combine all of the Judeo-Christian prophets, kinda like Ba'hai shall we say.  "The Ex. Mevlana himself was the Ex. Mohammed of his time [...] With Mohammed the book of prophethood was closed; and the book of sainthood was opened." 

Q: Wait, weren't Mevlevi's made illegal under Ataturk? 

A: More of less. A law passed under the nationalist movement in 1925 closed all Dervish lodges. Sufist names and clothing were also banned. Instead, one of these lodges was made into a museum. Later in the 1950s, (when Hasan Dede came to town), they were allowed to perform once a week. In the 1970s, the Mevlevi could go west again and act more. Today, they are permitted to practice and travel the world. They have raised Ataturk to sainthood and his picture is next to Mevlana himself in the EMAV center... 

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Okay, so after Hasan Dede spoke for an hour and a half, we had Zikir, the liturgy. 

Men and women, seated opposite from each other pray together. I covered my head for Zikir. They begin with the "Bismillah---" Arabic intro to prayer that all Muslims use. Then they go into a sort of their own "Fatiha" or main prayer. Carole told me to "be comfortable" before this. Some people might have been startled by the repeated "ALLAH ALLAH ALLAH" and swaying of the kneeling congregation. It was kind of like a Shaker ritual ceremony that I had practiced... This lasted for about 15 minutes. Most it was Turkish, some was Arabic (because of a visiting Sufist order).

Next, we had tea and cookies.  Of course.

After, we had the Sema or the Dervish Ceremony. Hasan Dede was dressed in the biggest hat and entered the room to sit on the ceremonial sheepskin. A wooden circle on the floor is uncovered previously. More semazens enter in black. After "acknowledging each other" in a sort of "Encounter" if you will, then acknowledging the space, as they pace in a circle. Music from the balcony has started. Then, they remove their black robes (both men AND women) and with the blessing of Hassan Dede (and his successor... who kind of looks like Bono), they beginning whirling. They do this four times. 

I love the Sema. It is beautiful. It is not ecstatic, like some Shaker ritual (like the ones I did in that play in high school where I got a concussion from my "ecstasy".....). It is level headed, or as level headed as you can be with such dizziness. It should not be spinning uncontrollably. There is something very regulated, very orderly, and very defined about the ritual. Each person was in this space and another space, with their environment--in out and beyond, with each other, with Hasan Dede, and with God. 

 Now, though I got a weird feeling that these people were like "Born Again Muslims" who have discovered some meaning in life and are led by an old man who looks like he would be selling shoes not god, I look back and rescind this "negativity." I do respect them. They are a peaceful people who have found meaning in life. This uneasiness that I felt and maybe preach in my writing here is a product, perhaps, of that a-religious "Amurrican" within, who might be a little skeptical of following anyone. That said, I really respect and admire their dedication to music, to history, to love, to beauty, and to God. I thank them for their hospitality and their honesty.

On the way back, we hitched a ride in a bus with an American/Finnish tour group of people who were celebrating the American's 70th birthday. He wanted to see the Mevlevi too...    

I'm sure I'll talk more about the EMAV in the future. This is only the surface of my experience....