MYSTICAL?? HOLD UP. That is what my mother said too. Of course mysticism has a bad rap to many, but mysticism is by no means about shaking pot in one's face and doing witchcraft. Don't worry mom. This is not what I did Thursday night.
I found myself the Contemporary Lovers of Mevlana Rumi online and a few e-mails later, I was in touch with Carole, who offered to meet Edgar (my brother...) and I to take us to her place of worship.
Now, I did my back research before meeting an older American woman from Michigan, holding three roses who recently had a stroke in front of a McDonalds in Taksim. The Contemporary Lovers of Mevalana Rumi (EMAV for short) are actually aided by the government and earn lots of tourist $$ by holding performances near the Galata Tower--the old Sufi Mausoleum. Their Spiritual Leader, Hasan Dede, has raised Ataturk to Sainthood and is quite the TV face. Already, you are getting the feel that this is almost like a vogue Jerry Falwell?
So Carole, bless her soul, takes us on a bus to her EMAV center. On the way, she tells us she has been in Istanbul for 26 years. The first 6 years, she didn't know what she was doing, then 20 years ago, she met Hasan Dede and "knew what she was doing." She always mentioned Hasan Dede, her "spiritual master" as if he was Jesus Christ himself. After traveling down back alleys where kids were playing ball, we get to the EMAV center, built three years. ago.
Immediately, we meet Hasan Dede, who I am led to sort of kneel to as he blesses me. Everyone rises when Hasan Dede enters or leaves. Hasan Dede looks like a car salesman, not a spiritual leader. The cleanliness strikes me first. Someone cleans a lawn chair off for me. We sit and read a pamphlet made by EMAV members. Later, we remove our shoes to go into a new building with nice carpet, wood, and pictures of Ataturk and Rumi.
The demographic is mixed though. The guy slicing your doner (or Gyro meat) is there, but also some very nice jewelry is around. Trust me, this kind of felt like one of those large Christian Congregations with microphones, new HomeDepot architecture, and an old man preaching from the floor on his sheepskin with his water, mints, and prayer beads at his side. Followers set their cell phones and diabetes pumps (yes...) in front to record him speaking. The Qu'ran sat on a shelf, unreachable
Before I go on, you should know some things about EMAV....
A CRASH COURSE IN HOW TO BE A CONTEMPORARY LOVER OF MEVLANA RUMI (Thanks to my Spiritual Talks of Hasan Dede Book, for 5 Turkish Pounds at the center... hmmm)
Q: Who is Mevlana Rumi?
A: Rumi was a 13th century Persian poet and philosopher. His teachings and Mystical Sufi spiritual practices were so influential, that his son continued the Sufi Order. Rumi was considered one of the most popular poets in America--according to wikipedia...
Q: What are some basic Mevlevi principles?
A: Mevlana teaches that God created the world and human beings and created HImself within the humans. He says, "Whatever you want, want from yourself because you are everything." Love between humans and God and Mevlana (who is everywhere) is the basic idea. LOVE and self perfection. Mevlana are famous for their Sema which is the Whirling Dervish Ritual, where anyone can whirl for the "burning love to become one with God." Contemporary lovers of Mevlana must follow Hasan Dede....
Q: Who is Hasan Dede?
A: He is a Macedonian who moved to Istanbul and fell in love with Sufism. He trained with another Mevlevi Sheikh, Hakki Dede. later, Hasan Dede became the representative of Mevlana. He has the red sheepskin used in the Sema. Basically, he sold Mevlani to the world and raised Ataturk to Sainthood. Because he can. Because he is Hasan Dede. (All rise when he is in the room). Resembles a sort of local politician/car salesman. Wears gold and silk (no no's in Islam).
Q: Are Mevlani Moslems?
A: They regard themselves as Moslems, but they do not read the Qu'ran. Instead, they read Mevlana's books, which can be translated into many languages. It is the "living Qu'ran, which is better"--as Carole said.
Q: Do Mevlani follow Mohammad?
A:They follow all prophets and combine all of the Judeo-Christian prophets, kinda like Ba'hai shall we say. "The Ex. Mevlana himself was the Ex. Mohammed of his time [...] With Mohammed the book of prophethood was closed; and the book of sainthood was opened."
Q: Wait, weren't Mevlevi's made illegal under Ataturk?
A: More of less. A law passed under the nationalist movement in 1925 closed all Dervish lodges. Sufist names and clothing were also banned. Instead, one of these lodges was made into a museum. Later in the 1950s, (when Hasan Dede came to town), they were allowed to perform once a week. In the 1970s, the Mevlevi could go west again and act more. Today, they are permitted to practice and travel the world. They have raised Ataturk to sainthood and his picture is next to Mevlana himself in the EMAV center...
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Okay, so after Hasan Dede spoke for an hour and a half, we had Zikir, the liturgy.
Men and women, seated opposite from each other pray together. I covered my head for Zikir. They begin with the "Bismillah---" Arabic intro to prayer that all Muslims use. Then they go into a sort of their own "Fatiha" or main prayer. Carole told me to "be comfortable" before this. Some people might have been startled by the repeated "ALLAH ALLAH ALLAH" and swaying of the kneeling congregation. It was kind of like a Shaker ritual ceremony that I had practiced... This lasted for about 15 minutes. Most it was Turkish, some was Arabic (because of a visiting Sufist order).
Next, we had tea and cookies. Of course.
After, we had the Sema or the Dervish Ceremony. Hasan Dede was dressed in the biggest hat and entered the room to sit on the ceremonial sheepskin. A wooden circle on the floor is uncovered previously. More semazens enter in black. After "acknowledging each other" in a sort of "Encounter" if you will, then acknowledging the space, as they pace in a circle. Music from the balcony has started. Then, they remove their black robes (both men AND women) and with the blessing of Hassan Dede (and his successor... who kind of looks like Bono), they beginning whirling. They do this four times.
I love the Sema. It is beautiful. It is not ecstatic, like some Shaker ritual (like the ones I did in that play in high school where I got a concussion from my "ecstasy".....). It is level headed, or as level headed as you can be with such dizziness. It should not be spinning uncontrollably. There is something very regulated, very orderly, and very defined about the ritual. Each person was in this space and another space, with their environment--in out and beyond, with each other, with Hasan Dede, and with God.
Now, though I got a weird feeling that these people were like "Born Again Muslims" who have discovered some meaning in life and are led by an old man who looks like he would be selling shoes not god, I look back and rescind this "negativity." I do respect them. They are a peaceful people who have found meaning in life. This uneasiness that I felt and maybe preach in my writing here is a product, perhaps, of that a-religious "Amurrican" within, who might be a little skeptical of following anyone. That said, I really respect and admire their dedication to music, to history, to love, to beauty, and to God. I thank them for their hospitality and their honesty.
On the way back, we hitched a ride in a bus with an American/Finnish tour group of people who were celebrating the American's 70th birthday. He wanted to see the Mevlevi too...
I'm sure I'll talk more about the EMAV in the future. This is only the surface of my experience....
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